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Outdoor living, built for an Australian backyard
From a low ground-level deck to a full outdoor kitchen, the structures that turn a backyard into a second living room — designed for our sun, our storms and our council rules.
The cheapest room you’ll ever add
Australians live outdoors more than most. A well-planned deck or covered patio can add usable living space for a fraction of the cost of a built extension — no new walls, no roof tie-in, no rough-in trades closing up before you’ve seen the result.
But the backyard is also the harshest part of the block. Timber bakes under UV, salt air chews at fixings on coastal sites, and bushfire-prone areas carry their own material rules. Plan for the climate first and the finish lasts; plan for the look alone and you’ll be re-coating every summer.
Seasonal upkeep guidesDeck, pergola or patio?
Three answers to three different problems. The right one depends on your ground, your budget and how much shade you need.
A deck levels out a sloping block
A timber or composite platform that creates flat, usable floor where the ground falls away. Ideal off the back of the house or around a pool. Ground-hugging decks are often the most DIY-friendly; once you raise the platform above a set height, structural design and council approval usually come into play.
- Best for sloping or uneven yards
- Needs UV-protective re-coating yearly
A pergola adds shade without walls
An open framework — freestanding or attached — that filters the sun and gives a space definition. Run battens, a shade sail or a deciduous vine over the top. Freestanding pergolas are among the friendliest builds for confident DIYers, though footings and fixings still have to meet wind ratings for your area.
- Great over an existing slab or deck
- Footings sized for local wind loads
A patio is the low-maintenance option
A paved or concrete area sitting on the ground — no timber to oil, no boards to replace. Pair it with a roof or pergola and it becomes an all-weather entertaining zone. Best where the ground is already close to level and you want a surface that shrugs off rain and sun.
- Lowest ongoing maintenance
- Needs fall and drainage planned in
Zone the backyard before you build
Before committing to any single structure, map the yard into zones — cooking, dining, lounging, lawn and planting. Track the sun across the day and put seating where the afternoon shade lands. Good zoning is what stops a backyard feeling like a deck stranded in a paddock.
- Follow the shade, not just the view
- Leave a path between every zone
What survives the Australian sun
Every board you put down has to handle relentless UV, drenching summer storms and seasonal swings in moisture. Pick the timber for durability, then protect it.
Match the timber to the threat
- Hardwoods like spotted gum and blackbutt carry strong natural durability ratings for exposed decks.
- Treated pine is budget-friendly but must be the right hazard-level treatment for ground or weather contact.
- In designated bushfire-prone areas, decking and structure may need to meet a Bushfire Attack Level (BAL) under the relevant Australian Standard.
- On coastal blocks, choose stainless or hot-dip galvanised fixings to resist salt corrosion.
Finishes that hold up
Bare timber greys and checks within a season of full sun. A finish is not optional in this climate — it’s the difference between a deck that ages well and one you’re sanding back every spring.
- Penetrating oils soak in, keep the natural look and are easy to re-coat — but need re-doing most years.
- Decking stains add pigment and UV blockers, lasting longer between coats.
- Composite boards skip oiling entirely — worth costing if low maintenance is the priority.
The outdoor kitchen, planned properly
An outdoor cooking zone is where backyards earn their keep. Plan the services early — and remember the licensed-trade line is firm here.
Built-in BBQ & bench
Sheltered dining
Shade & soft light
Weatherproof tops
Indoor-out link
Where DIY stops in an outdoor kitchen
You can build the cabinetry, lay the bench and frame the structure. But any electrical, any gas line and any plumbing for a sink must be carried out by appropriately licensed tradespeople — that is a legal requirement in Australia, not a recommendation.
- Licensed electrician for power and lighting
- Licensed gas fitter for any fixed gas appliance
- Licensed plumber for a sink or drainage
Check what needs council sign-off
Decks above a certain height usually need approval
Rules vary by state and council, but a common pattern is this: a low, ground-level deck under a set height (often around 600mm) may be exempt or fall under complying development, while a raised deck, a deck attached to the dwelling, or anything structural typically requires development approval and engineered footings.
- Confirm the height threshold and setbacks with your local council in writing.
- Pools, boundary fences and overlooking can trigger extra requirements.
- Bushfire-prone, heritage and flood-overlay sites have their own controls.
- When unsure, engage a building certifier or designer before you order materials.
This is general educational guidance, not approval advice. Always verify current requirements with your council and the relevant Australian Standards.
Get the groundwork right first
Most deck failures trace back to what happened before the first board went down. Tap a step to expand.
Mark out and check approvals
Peg the footprint, confirm boundary setbacks and lock in whether you need council approval before you spend a cent on timber.
Call Dial Before You Dig to locate underground services, and photograph the site so you have a record of existing ground levels.
Set out footings to the right depth
Footing size and spacing depend on the load and your soil. Dig to the depth your design calls for and keep posts plumb while the concrete cures.
In high-wind or coastal regions, footings and tie-downs may need upsizing — follow the engineered detail or the relevant Australian Standard.
Frame bearers and joists square
Get the subframe dead level and square before decking. Use the correct fixings and leave clearance for airflow underneath to keep timber dry.
Gaps under the deck let it breathe; trapped moisture is what rots a frame from below in our wetter months.
Lay boards with expansion gaps
Leave consistent gaps for drainage and seasonal movement. Pre-drill hardwood near ends to stop splitting, and stagger the joins.
Timber swells in summer humidity and shrinks in dry heat — the gap that looks right in January will be wrong if you close it up tight in July.
Oil or stain before you furnish
Let the timber acclimatise, then apply your finish across the whole deck. Re-coat on the schedule your product specifies to stay ahead of UV.
A first coat on fresh, clean boards penetrates best — once the surface has greyed, you’re sanding before you can protect.
Outdoor living questions
It depends on your state and the deck’s height. Many low-level decks under a set height (often around 600mm above ground) can be exempt or complying development, but raised decks, decks attached to the dwelling and structural work usually need approval. Always confirm with your local council before you start.
Durable hardwoods such as spotted gum, blackbutt and merbau, or correctly treated pine, are common choices. All exterior timber needs UV-protective oil or stain and regular re-coating, because the Australian sun greys and dries unfinished boards quickly.
Many homeowners build ground-level decks and freestanding pergolas themselves, but you must work to the relevant Australian Standards and council rules. Electrical and plumbing for an outdoor kitchen must be done by licensed tradespeople, and engaged structural elements may require a certifier or engineer.
It varies with exposure and product, but a full-sun deck commonly needs oil refreshed each year, while pigmented stains can stretch longer. Autumn is a popular time to re-coat — clean, sand back any rough patches and apply before the wet season.